A bargain lock can look identical to a good one on the shelf. The differences show up later: stiff keys, failed springs, broken cylinders and doors that give way under a kick.
Where cheap locks save money
- Thin zinc or pot-metal parts instead of brass or steel.
- Short bolts that barely enter the strike.
- Low-tolerance pins that wear quickly and are easy to manipulate.
- Flimsy strike plates with short screws.
What it costs you
- More frequent replacement.
- Lockouts when a key snaps or a spring fails.
- Poor resistance to forced entry.
- Keys that can be copied anywhere without control.
What to look for instead
- ANSI/BHMA Grade 1 or Grade 2 for exterior deadbolts.
- A full one-inch throw bolt.
- A heavy strike with long screws into the stud.
- Rekeyable cylinders so you can change keys without replacing hardware.
Where not to overspend
A premium lock on a weak frame is wasted money. Spend first on a solid door and frame reinforcement, then on a good mid-grade lock. High-security cylinders make sense when key control or high risk justify them.
What the low price leaves out
A cheap lock can cost more once you count repeat callouts, damage from failed hardware and the chance of a break-in. Poor tolerances mean keys wear quickly, latches stick and finish peels within a couple of seasons.
Where to spend and where to save
Spend on the exterior deadbolt, the strike and the frame. For low-risk interior doors, a simpler lock is fine. Look for recognizable grading standards and ask the seller what the lock has been tested for.
Think about the whole lifecycle
Consider installation cost, expected life and whether the cylinder can be rekeyed. A well-chosen lock is cheaper over time. See high-security lock value and rekeying versus replacing.
For lock upgrades in Toronto, see lock repair and replacement.